Life after Kids, I'm now a FULL TIME RVer (VanDweller)... this is just my ramblings about this n that and here n there. Nuttin important, but you might come across something that catches your eye.
Tsk. Hope that gets taken care of immediately. No one would want that to escalate. Especially when a lot of the house's foundations and functions are dependent on the roof actually doing what it's supposed to, which is to prevent stuff like this from happening.Lino @ Arrys Roofing
I'm working on it, doin my research while I am able to park under car port... because I will likely have to do it myself.
Your biggest obstacle looks like it will be those structural ridges, grooves in the roof itself. It makes me think this was something done by a previous owner not the van converter. Converters I would think would select models that don't have a varied surface. Regardless, you have to deal with what you have.You'll need at least a gallon, maybe two of self-leveling compound. You can get it from Camping World or other RV suppliers. I would also get a roll of butyl-tape.There are usually two types of roof mounts. One type is held/drawn down by screws from the top, the other usually has a rigid internal frame and the screws draw down from inside....this is the preferable method as you can get an actual pinching method for a better, firmer hold. After removing all the old compound (whatever it is), clean the surface thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or other good solvent. "IF" it were me, I'd probably use a coarse scrubber on the painted surface the leveling compound is going to be used on. This will help give it a tooth for better adhesion. With the surfaces of the vent and roof cleaned I'd put a layer of the butyl tape around the entire perimeter of the mounting base. I would probably also build up the area of the groove recesses with the tape also in an effort to fill those gaps. I'd probably try to fill those grooves to the thickness of a single layer of tape over the height of the ridges. Then with my single layer on the mounting base, when I screw it into place I'd get the excess squeeze out you want to see when it's tightened down. This insures you have a good seal all the way around. Once it's mounted and tightened into place, you can take a razor blade and remove any of the excess that was squeezed out. Wait a day for it to settle into place and then flood the area around the base and out maybe 2 to 3 inches with the self-leveling compound. This would best be done on a day the sun was shining and it was nice and warm as it will cause the butyl to be more flexible for filling those tiny nooks and crannies. Good luckDenny